Safe Skincare Actives for Skin of Colour
A simplified guide based on Dr. Vanita Rattan's Skin Revolution.
The following active ingredient percentages are considered safe and effective for most individuals with skin of color. While some people may tolerate higher concentrations without problems, these guidelines prioritize minimizing irritation and supporting healthy, resilient skin.
1. Niacinamide
Safe: 2–5%If going above: Over 5% may cause flushing/irritation. Avoid layering multiple niacinamide products.
2. Vitamin C (Derivatives)
Safe: 5–10%If going above: Avoid L-ascorbic acid >10%. Don't mix with acids or retinol in same routine.
3. Retinol
Safe: ≤0.3%If going above: Higher may irritate; buffer with moisturizer and introduce slowly.
4. Retinaldehyde
Safe: ~0.1%If going above: Less irritating but still start slow.
5. Azelaic Acid
Safe: 10–20%If going above: Monitor for dryness/tingling; generally very safe.
6. Alpha Arbutin
Safe: 2%If going above: Higher not more effective; stay consistent instead.
7. Kojic Acid / Kojic Dipalmitate
Safe: 1–2%If going above: Use kojic dipalmitate for less irritation. Monitor skin reaction.
8. Lactic Acid
Safe: ≤7%If going above: Avoid mixing with other acids or retinoids same night.
9. Mandelic Acid
Safe: 5–10%If going above: Well tolerated; introduce gradually.
10. Salicylic Acid
Safe: 1–2%If going above: Avoid if dry/sensitive; may cause dryness or peeling.
11. Tranexamic Acid
Safe: 2–5%If going above: Use at neutral pH; don’t layer with strong acids.
12. Glycolic Acid
Safe: ≤5%If going above: Higher risk of PIH; avoid without pro guidance.
13. Hydroquinone
Safe: 2% (OTC), 4% (Rx)If going above: Use max 3 months; risk of rebound pigmentation or ochronosis.
14. Peptides
Safe: AnyIf going above: Generally safe. No special precautions.
15. Hyaluronic Acid / Glycerin
Safe: AnyIf going above: Safe; pair with moisturizer especially in dry climates.
16. Ceramides
Safe: AnyIf going above: No cautions; supportive for all skin types.
17. Green Tea Extract (EGCG)
Safe: ~1–3%If going above: Very safe. No significant issues.
18. Vitamin E (Tocopherol)
Safe: 0.5–1%If going above: May clog pores in acne-prone skin or rarely cause reactions.
19. CoQ10 (Ubiquinone)
Safe: ~0.5–1%If going above: Very safe and non-irritating.
20. Sunscreen (Zinc Oxide)
Safe: 20%+If going above: Ensure SPF 30–50 broad-spectrum. Reapply often.